Steve's Cycling Blog

Welcome to Turkmenistan (stage 77)

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This might be too much information, but I’m pleased to report that this mornings ‘output’ was back to normal in terms of timing, volume, colour and consistency so while I have a way to go in terms of getting energy reserves back to normal I’m finally – eight days later – back to being healthy again. Hurrah!! And long may it last – I don’t think I could cope with another round of this any time soon!

Despite the leisurely breakfast time of 0700 most of us were awake at something around our regular time of ‘too bloody early’ but it was nice to be able to take things slowly, including a couple of cups of tea with the scrambled eggs etc.

Stage 77 route notes part one

Stage 77 route notes part one

Stage 77 route notes part two

Stage 77 route notes part two

The lunch truck set off shortly before 0800 to see if they could at least get out of Uzbekistan without needing to unload everything, the remainder of us followed about 0845 and overall things went smoothly, checking out through customs and then immigration without any real hassle at all – even Rob, who’d never been given one of his incoming forms back, and Will who’d lost his, managed to get out without hassle.

So in less than an hour we were half way there – in theory. The 1.2km of road from the border post to the actual border was the best pavement we saw in all of Uzbekistan, shame they couldn’t have done such a good job of improving the rest of the roads as they did on that section.

A level of confusion ensued at the first post for Turkmenistan, but eventually the two teenage soldiers (they were probably older than that, but didn’t look it!) got the hang of what was going on and managed to record all our details, by hand, in their book and we were sent on our way. Another passport check and we were into the compound.

The next couple of hours were taken up with form filling, waiting, filling in the form again because we’d been given the wrong information, standing in line, waiting, having our bags x-rayed and examined, waiting, getting told off for trying to go to the wrong toilet block, waiting, trying to stay out of the sun, waiting, sitting round, waiting for the vans to be inspected, waiting, waiting and then some more waiting…

Jordan took off as soon as he could to hunt down somewhere which could provide us with lunch. The remainder of us hung out for a while to allow time for that to happen before setting off to discover that he’d done an excellent job, finding somewhere with air-conditioning, ice-cold drinks and what proved to be really tasty food.

The floating bridge was pretty impressive – sadly we’d been explicitly told that we’re not allowed to take photographs of bridges (as well as a long list of other things we’re not allow to photograph) – as well as a little scary with it’s shiny plate-steel surface and some pretty decent sized gaps between each pontoon.

It seems however that naughty Erwin took a photo (photo credit http://erwin-auf-der-seidenstrasse.blogspot.ae/)

It seems however that naughty Erwin took a photo (photo credit http://erwin-auf-der-seidenstrasse.blogspot.ae/)

In the end the police at the checkpoint weren’t that interested in us, but they had held up the white van so there was no flagging ahead so I offered to wait with the passports till the red van got there and could hand them over. Shortly after they’d arrived I set off, and soon caught up with all the other riders at a coke stop where they were eating ice cream having been told to wait to allow the van more time to get ahead – with my new-found stomach health I decided it was time for ice-cream again too and it proved to be worth the wait.

Getting through town was rather fun – they also have a pretty impressive flag and pole here too

Turkmenabat flagpole

Turkmenabat flagpole

From Turkmenabat to camp the wind was back behind us and the road surface was at least ‘reasonable’ so Grant and I were sitting comfortably in the high 30s, low 40s for the last 20km which really helped to get the day done.

The truck stop looked closed down as we rode up but it turns out it’s operational, air-conditioned and has a small range of delightfully cold beverages, though sadly beer isn’t one of those!

There are a few bushes in the sand behind the car park which given how late we’ve got here are actually managing to provide a level of shade so I’ve levelled up a spot, got my tent up and out of my riding kit.

Tomorrow’s directions don’t really need a photo taking – go out to the road, turn right, ride 140km, stop at the next truck stop on the left, job done!

Riding data

View from my tent

Moonlight through the trees - didn't really work out ;-)

Moonlight through the trees – didn’t really work out 😉

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