Awesome news to start the day – Liz got an email from (the other) Steve to say that he’d been able to get a set of replacement tent poles for me, that they were ‘only’ $130 USD (less than I’d feared they might be) and that he’s bringing them to Gorno with him – this means I only have to make do with the poles I have for six more camping nights, which given that they were more problematic yesterday when I put my tent up, is really great news!
With the shorter day yesterday we have a longer-than-planned ride today, but at only 86km, with the last 16km on tarmac we’re all hoping for a more comfortable day.
Stage 23 rider notes
Back on the road and sadly things hadn’t magically improved overnight, so the run through to lunch was pretty hard going, with the (now) usual mix of corrugations and sand. I was heard (probably not actually heard, since there was nobody to hear me, but) to say on more than one occasion, “How the f**k are we expected to ride in this sh*t”.
I know that I’ve been doing quite a bit of complaining in the more recent posts, but the last few days riding really have been ones to be endured rather than enjoyed – I’m hopeful, as are all of us riding, that the last two days of riding in Mongolia will be better – we start heading into the mountains which if nothing else will mean less sand. Sure there will be more hills, but I’m okay with hills!
After lunch the track did improve. The interesting thing about the ‘roads’ in this part of Mongolia is that they aren’t actually ‘constructed’, all they are are the tracks where multiple vehicles have driven – they’ve never seen an excavator or grader, much less a roller.
At the 70km mark we were back on tarmac for the last climb and descent into town and really was a joy to behold 🙂
Ulaangom isn’t a massive city, and like many of the towns we’ve passed through in the last week it’s definitely seen better days with closed and deserted factories to be seen all along the way.
Tomorrow’s a rest day, and though I have a few jobs which need doing – including trying to fix my tent poles ‘better’ – the main priority will be to rest!!
Riding data
I’m in awe of your achievement this far Steve. You’ve taken the good with the bad and made the best of this truly awesome achievement. Love hearing how it’s going. As I’ve said previously it’s the closest I will get to the Silk Route in any shape or form.
Thanks Shireen – as you can probably tell I’ve been having lots more fun over recent days than some of those ones in Mongolia. We also get to change countries a bit more frequently over coming weeks which is going to be fun too!
“but I’m okay with hills” always thought there was something not quite right about you, now you have proven it!
There are far worse things than hills when you’re on a bike – corrugated gravel, head winds, rain to name but only three…! and yeah that probably does provide additional evidence that I’m not quite right in the head…!
I’m with Claire – never mind your complaints I’ve been impressed with how positive you’ve been all along, and wondering how the rest of the group is getting on. I’m guessing you aren’t the grumpiest of the lot, despite recent adversity (those wounds look miserable).
We’re rooting for you over here! I hope your rest day helps/helped.
Thanks for the positive thoughts Maggie, much appreciated 🙂
The rest day has indeed helped, and the holes are all healing up pretty well – the very dry environment helps too I think!
Ouch! Glad to see / hear you’re healing well but still, not fun and painful riding for a few days. Slightly surprised you’re not complaining more!! What’s the mood / morale like amongst the troops?
The Irish blessing comes to mind…may the (tarmac’d) road rise up to meet you and the wind be always at your back.
I think the mood can be split somewhat between those of us who are still intent on riding the whole thing (somewhat grim) and those who have accepted that they will have to ride the van at least some of the time (more resigned). Today (rest day) people have been generally more positive, particularly since we’re now counting down the days to getting into Russia and back onto Tarmac.